First, the wiring. I got all of the wiring from the donor car, including the dash harness and key, but once I got a look at it I decided there is probably no way I'll be able to neatly hide all that wiring in the car. This, combined with the fact that I'll need to get it flash tuned for the mods I'm doing anyway pushed me in the direction of sending the harness to get cut down professionally and flash the ecu for my mods and to get rid of the security system that makes the dash harness necessary. I pulled the engine harness off of the engine last weekend. I'll likely be sending that out this week and when I get it back there will only be 4 wires to hook up to get the engine running. Can't wait.
The fuel system is also a little tricky. Obviously my car is carbureted currently. This means that it has small fuel supply and return lines, no electric fuel pump and no baffling in the tank to keep air bubbles from getting into the fuel lines. To get fuel to the engine there are two typical options.
1. Get a baffled tank from a 75-76 280z, then buy a fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator and run larger lines to the engine. I would also need to modify the VQ fuel rail to make it have a fuel return(the system is returnless from the factory)
2. Keep the carb tank and to a surge tank setup. This would require a low pressure pump to feed the surge tank, a high pressure pump to feed the engine, a surge tank, fuel pressure regulator and lots of plumbing. I would still have to modify the VQ rail with this as well.
I chose a third option that I don't think anyone has done for a VQ swap before. I bought a 350z fuel tank and pump (which was HUGE).
I cut out the mounting flange where the internally regulated, in-tank pump mounts.
I cut open my Z tank
And I welded the new pump flange into my existing tank.
This pump draws directly from where it mounts, and has a second line the goes to the other side of the tank to combat fuel starvation. The high pressure circuit draws from this built in cup that acts like a surge tank. This is setup to be a returnless system already, so once mounted I should only have to run one fuel line and two wires to get this working. Now that I have it welded up, the tricky part will be tracking down and sealing all of the pinhole leaks that will inevitably be along my seams, but once done this should be a good setup.
I also have to modify my crossmember to clear the engine. I've already cut it open, and am waiting on some steel to weld it back.
And on a slightly sad note. CB has dismantled his car and sold his shell. He kept most of the components that are going into a new Z, but it is a bit sad to see the red car go.
The benefit of this to me is that I will be using his shop to do my engine swap, and that I'll be inheriting the 3" exhaust (with cutout) he just removed from the car, since he won't be able to use it with his new long tube headers.
Still left on the list for the swap:
1. Rear end. I have a differential, and 280zx CV axles. I need to get 280z stub axles, CV adapters, and a 280z moustache bar.
2. Driveshaft. Once I have the engine and diff mounted I can measure for the drive shaft.
3. Exhaust. I'm gonna have to modify the exhaust to fit the new engine.
Getting there!
-W.W.
SBSS
